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There's a land where the mountains are nameless,
And rivers all run God knows where;
There are lives that are erring and aimless,
And deaths that just hang by a hair.
There are hardships that nobody reckons;
There are valleys unpeopled and still;
There's a land-oh, it beckons and beckons,
And I want to go back-and I will.
From the "Spell
of the Yukon" by Robert Service
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Yukon "The land of magic and the mystery"
I start this story with a part from a poem. I did this for a reason. First, I like this
poem and second, this is exactly how I felt after I returned back home. I will go back
there next year whatever happens. I am not very good with poems but believe me
when you are in the Yukon there are two minor things you will get into whether you
like it our not. The first thing is the Klondike Gold rush and the next are the words
of Robert Service. When I prepared myself for this trip I read a special book about
the Yukon. It's called "Land of the Midnight Sun". It was written 45 years ago but I
don't think any other book can describe the history of the Yukon better. |
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The Yukon Territory covers about 483.450 square kilometers. One percent of this area
is inland water and more than half is wooded. That's almost the size of Spain except that
there is a population of 32,000 in the entire Yukon and 23,000 Yukoners are settled in
Whitehorse. I think this will show you well how sparse this Territory is populated. There
are several explanations about the origin of the Territory name. John Bell, the first
European who stood on the banks of the upper Yukon River, said that the Indians called
it Yuocon, or White Water River. |
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| In the old native language of the Gwi-Tchin "Yu-kun-ah", means Great River. Whatever
the truth will be it finally turned out into The Yukon! |
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| From the northern coast at sea level the land rises up to 6000 meters at the top of
Mount Logan in the southwest of the Yukon. For people who love mountains this is
probably the most beautiful area in the Yukon. Tourist will discover quickly that the
land has many contrasts. Huge broad valleys will give some extra dimension and will
offer you some awesome photographic possibilities and great views. |
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It also makes it possible to see the wildlife much better. We spotted our first grizzly after
driving just 15 minutes away from Whitehorse. It is this wide-open vista that makes the
Yukon so different from many other mountainous countries.
Geographically you can divide the Yukon into taiga and tundra, which I really love
due to my big outdoor experiences from the past. The taiga including the forests and has a
sub arctic zone, the tundra is the vast rocky plain in the north, where extreme
temperatures have stunted the vegetation. The summers are relatively warm with
temperatures easily reaching 25° C and higher. During our stay the highest temperature
was about 28 degrees but we also experienced a big snowstorm at the 12th of July.
People tell me that in the winter, the temperatures vary between +4 and minus 50° C
depending on the latitude. The weather in the Yukon can change quickly and mountain
winds have a great influence over it. |
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On July 5th we had an experience in which the weather changed in just 5 minutes and
made it almost impossible for us to cross a lke by boat.
Above the Arctic Circle, The Yukon is known as the "Land of the Midnight Sun" which
we experienced and enjoyed as well in the northern part of Scandinavia for many years.
Although we know the northern lights from Scandinavia they are nothing compared with
the much more powerful Aurora Borealisyou can experience in the Yukon and Alaska.
I know several people who go expecially to the Yukon, Alaska and Labrador to see this
natural mystery year after year.
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Boreal forest |
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| Canada's boreal forest is part of a great northern circumpolar band of mostly coniferous
forests extending across the sub arctic regions ofRussia, Scandinavia and North America.
Different habitats exist within the forest. White spruce, the most common tree species,
grows in a wide Boreal forest range of moisture and soil conditions, and is larges along
rivers. Lodge pole pines grow in the drier areas with well-drained soil. These areas often
support large tracts of lichens, an important winter food for woodland caribou. Trembling
aspen grow well on open slopes and in areas regenerating after fire. Aspens have a
smooth, whitish-green chalky bark but are famous for the leaves that "tremble" with the
slightest breeze. This is one of the many things that make Yukon so mysterious. Black
spruce grows in areas with poorly drained wet soil, often over permafrost. The permafrost
itself is hard to recognize but I know it is there and you can feel it like I did in northern
Finland too. Deep-rooted balsam poplars gor along river corridors and in moist draws,
where their roots are kept wet year-round. Dead trees and fallen logs provide shelter for
many small animals, such as voles and red squirrels, which are the main diet of pine
marten. Listen for the chattering of red squirrels and the movement of grouse on the
forest floor. The vegetation is less dense than in Atlantic Canada and BC and that made
hiking, fly fishing and wildlife spotting much easier. |
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Lakes and wetlands
Still water includes some wetland and lakes. Wetlands include shallow bodies of water
with heavy growth of aquatic and shoreline vegetation. Many orchids grow in the moist
soil surrounding wetlands and bloom in June and July. Wetlands with dense aquatic
vegetation are good habitats for Northern Pike (known locally as Jackfish) and moose.
We knew that fly-fishing for pike in the Yukon was excellent but we never realized that it
was much better than we could imagine. The pike can be rather big too. Wetlands
provide nesting, feeding and excape habitat for waterfowl such as Lesser Scaup, Northern
Pintail, Green-winged Teal, and American Widgeon. Muskrat push-ups, seen on the
surface after the ice forms, remain throughout the winter and spring. These are feeding
and resting platforms built by muskrats so they can gather food further form their bank
dens than they would otherwise be able to reach. Pointed stumps and dome-shaped lodges
with nearby underwater branch piles are signs that beabers are nearby.
In summer, wetlands are important feeding areas for moose and provide them with escape
routes from attacks by predators such as gray wolves and grizzly bears. The summer diet
of moose consists of aquatic vegetation along with willow buds and leaves. Yellow
Warblers, waswings and many ohter species of songbirds nest in the vegetation
surrounding wetlands. Some birds feast on insects taht emerge from the water during
June and July. Larger lakes provide abundant stocks of fish for Ospreys and Bald Eagles.
These lakes are the preferred habitat of the Common Loon, well know for its haunting
and mystic call. Lakes also provide excellent habitats for Lake Trout and different
species of Whitefish. In fall, they become staging areas for waterfowl where hundreds of
birds can sometimes be seen.
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Flora and fauna |
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The Yukon is know to be home to four species of amphibians, 61 species of mammmals,
279 species of birds, 1,150 different kinds of plants and over 1,500 species of insects.
The insects are an important feeding source for the birds and each spring and fall the sky
over Yukon comes alive with millions of birds migrating from their winter stay up to
their nesting grouds all over the Yukon or returning back to their summer stay
somewhere south.
Dahl sheep |
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Population:
People
31,881
Moose
50,000
Dall sheep 25,000
Black bears 7,000
Grizzly bears 10,000
Caribou
185,000
Fish
species
38
The famous Porcupine caribou herd which is estimated at 120,000 animals winters in
central Yukon. Across the Territory tourist frequently spot Dahl sheep, black and grizzly
bears, moose, fox, caribou, coyotes, marmots, porcupines, squirrels and many birds. We
saw them all in just one single sight seeing trip that lasted only a few hours.
Coyote |
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| The flora is amazing expecially when you are able to make a trip in the highlands. We
spotted deep blue lupine, yellow potentilla, monkshood, pink flowered wintergreen and
Arctic poppy at many places. Beside the roads you can find pink fireweed, crimson
purple bear root and feathery foxtail grasses swaying gently in the mountain winds. |
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The streams and rivers
Many species of fish and birds inhabit rivers and streams. It's a perfect areato get in
touch with nature. Arctic Grayling and whitefish are common species in most Yukon
Rivers. They attract many predatores to these areas as well. A mink's diet includes
muskrat, mice, showshoe hare, fish, frogs and sometimes birds. River otters prefer fish
but will occasionally forage on river bottoms for aquatic insects or consume birds,
muskrats, voles and shrews. Mink and river otters may raise their families in abandoned
muskrat and beaver bank dens. Moose are also attracted to river corridors to feed and we
have seen dozens while fishing and travelling by plane or boat. Harlequin Ducks nest on
the banks of fast flowing rivers and feed on aquatic invertebrates as does the American
Dipper. The spotted Sandpiper probes exposed sandbars and muddy shores for buried
invertebrates. In most of the steep riverbanks, colony-nesting Bank Swallows can be
found.
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| River sandbars are ablaze with the color of river beauty or dwarf fireweed in July and
August. While floating quietly downriver in a canoe one might see a bear that has come
to feed on lush grasses and horsetails. A gray wolf may serenade the night sky close to
your campsite. Be wary of grizzly bears especially near noisy streams and rivers. Close
encounters seem more frequent when salmon are spawning in late summer and fall but
keep your eyes wide open at all times. Keep in mind that I am talking about my own
experiences. It's a memorable experience if a grizzly ever chases you. A trip down one of
the Yukon's many beautiful rivers or on a quiet lake may be the best way of seeing a
variety of wildlife species. Please ensure that you have the proper first aid and river
rescue equipment, as well as ample clothing and food to complete your trip safely. Never
fish, hike or travel alone in the Yukon wilderness either. |
| Fly Fishing
If fly fishing is your passion like it is for us then you will be amazed how many streams
and rivers will offer you some awesom fly fishing. We highly promote catch and release
and using barbless hooks. Before you can wet your flies you must have a valid fishing
license to fish in Yukon waters. Licenses are available at community Renewable
Resources offices, the Fisheries and Oceans Canada office, most highway lodges,
sporting goods stores, hardware and general stores and gas stations. If you plan any flyfishing
for salmon in the Yukon, you must purchase a Salmon Conservation Catch Card
in addition to a Yukon fishing license. In spite of poor controls be a good tourist and buy
your license. They are cheap anyway. A Catch Card can be obtained at the same place
where you purchase your fishing license. Fly-fishing in national parks requires a National
Park Fishing License as well. These are available at the Kluane National Park Reserve
Visitor Reception Centre or the Parks Canada ofice in Whitehorse.
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| Preparation
Most trips will start from Whitehorse and it is wise to do some shopping first. I can
advise you to buy some good maps, bear spray, insect repellent and some angler guides.
We bought all our maps at Mac's Fireweed Books. You also can order some information
by email for your preperation. The address is yukonbooks.comand this is where I
ordered my book "Land of the Midnight Sun". There is a good fly shop named "Sports
North" in Whitehorse that can give you the latest local information about the fishing and
river situation. Here I bought my angler guides. They also know which flies work the best
for the Yukon. A vist to the Tourist Information Center is worthwhile as well. There are
dozens of brochures and information packages there which you can get for free. For good
preperation visit their website at: www.touryukon.com
If you want to stay overnight in Whitehorse be sure you make a booking because there
are many tourist and space is limited. I highly recoment the High Country Inn. A big
room with Jacuzzi is amazingly cheap. If you have to make a long journey a wonderful
lunch packet can be ordered at Tim Horton's. If you stay longer in Whitehorse don't
forget to have a cup of coffee in the Chocolate Claim you will enjoy it very much.
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With
special thanks to the Yukon Tourist Department for their great help to
realize this story and for their permission to use some information and
background from the Yukon's wildlife viewing guide and several other
information packages. |
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